The wildly popular Project Runway returns to Lifetime Television on Jan. 14. This time the fashion competition boasts two Central Florida hopefuls: Ben Chmura of Tampa and Jesse LeNoir of Orlando. Either young man—one gay and the other an outspoken straight ally—could win a prize package that includes a photo shoot for Elle, the ability to sell their clothes at BlueFly.com, and $100,000. We recently caught up with the two contenders.
Watermark: So, Ben, tell us a little about yourself, your background.
Ben Chmura: I went to high school in Dunedin and then graduated Savannah College of Art and Design in Fashion Design, the four-year program there. I lived up to New York for about two years. I did various freelance jobs, for Ralph Lauren, Club Monaco, American Eagle. I had a couple of full-time jobs doing assistant designer work with Club Jeans and Sean John. After that, I wanted to go back to school for the grad program, so I called my mom, and asked, “Hey, do you mind if I move back home and live for a little bit, before I go overseas for school.” And of course she welcomed me home with open arms. I then decided I didn’t want to go back to school, and I’ve been in Tampa ever since. That’s was 2003. I live in Seminole Heights now. I’ve always been in love with the area, especially since people have been coming in and refurbishing the houses. I just can’t get past the wood floors; I love them. My other half Bobbie and I have lived here for almost two years.
You know the Lifetime web site lists your hometown as Connecticut, and yet you’ve lived most of your life in Florida.
I grew up in South Meriden, Conn. Most of my family had moved to Florida already, so my parents decided to relocate to be closer to the rest of the family, especially my grandparents. So we moved to Dunedin in 1990, when I was 10. I still feel my upbringing is definitely a New England upbringing. I say “aunt” [with a long A] instead of “ant.” I think it’s embedded in you, where you’re from originally.
Does New England affect your design style any?
[Laughs] Umm, not at all. My New England mom jokes that if she doesn’t like one of my pieces, it must be a great design!
How about Tampa and Florida shaping your style?
Yes, actually, for a while there, I was doing collections that were geared toward the Tampa Bay consumer: weather-conscious and attentive to color. At the same time, I sometimes felt like I was straying away from some of the elements I am interested in. So, for the last couple of collections I’ve done, I put out some of my better work by paying attention to who I am rather than catering to a clientele.
So, you’re a gay man in the fashion industry…
Yeah. [Laughs] Every gay male I’ve known has always had some sort of female icon. I actually started out doing men’s wear. When I settled down in Tampa, women were always so responsive to my work. They’d always say, “When are you going to start doing women’s stuff?”
You’ve made dresses based on poisonous snakes. How many have you made?
I’ve started off with eight dresses, and then I added three more. It’s a total of 11 right now.
And you used them for your audition for Project Runway?
I’d actually auditioned a couple times before this, and each time I’d come back stronger. We’d been following the show as it transitioned over to Lifetime Television [last season—Season 6.] I thought I’d take a hiatus from the process to see how it went with the new network. But the more that Bobbie and I talked about it, we just figured, “What have I got to lose?” Then, one of my friends from Lakeland said he found the Project Runway page on Facebook, and he nominated me. I thought, “Well, it doesn’t quite work that way.” [Laughs] But I also got the clear picture that a lot of people were supporting me, so I decided to go for it.
During the audition, judges Tim Gunn and Zoe Glassner commented on your attention to detail on those snake dresses.
It was incredible! I’ve gotten great feedback in Tampa, but I’ve never had the opportunity to show them to professionals in the industry. The judges noticed the detail and the construction. I especially loved that Tim Gunn said this venomous snake idea didn’t look contrived or costume-y, that it was thoughtful. I was extremely flattered. I couldn’t ask for a better audition with them.
What makes you nervous about being on the show?
How I’ll be perceived by the viewers. I think you always know your worst qualities, but most of us don’t see that broadcast on national television. Even with the online pictures and videos leading up to the premiere, people had a lot to say, and not all of it is about your work. If they’re going to make a comment on the clothes, that’s open game, that’s fine. Because it’s not always going to appeal to everybody. Everyone’s looking for an individual sense of style, and if I can do a one-of-kind piece that will help that, that’s great. But it’s not going to be everybody’s taste level, and that’s fine.
How do you keep yourself sane then?
Well, I’ve made a conscious effort not to read blogs or commentary. I know this sort of criticism comes with the territory. But I don’t want to jeopardize the opportunity or the experience. I just want to enjoy it. | l |
Watermark: So, what can you tell us about your background?
Jesse LeNoir: I am the third of six kids. I was born in Painesville, Ohio. My dad was a nuclear engineer, so we traveled around to different power plants about every three years. Eventually we found our way to Florida. I graduated from a boarding school in Jacksonville, and then I got an acting degree from University of Central Florida. I started making clothes as a hobby, and then it sort of evolved into a business.
Where did you get your fashion education?
I had to put in hours in the costume shop when I was getting my degree. I learned how to use a sewing machine, did some little hand-stitches, things like that. I took a class that taught me design skills. I also did independent studies that went into tailoring and fabric. A lot of it, though, was going into thrift stores, finding pieces for myself, pulling them apart, using pieces for patterns, and putting them back together. I read books on technique, but much of it was trial and error.
Tell us about your evolution as a designer.
It was actually in high school—I started with graphic t-shirts. My brothers and I wanted to try it, so we hand-stenciled and did screen printing for ourselves and friends. A lot of our creativity stemmed from personal want, and we just got good at it. I moved from there to men’s fashions. But then I realized that much of the forward-thinking is done on the women’s side of things. I think a lot of my designs have that Orlando element; they’re bright and sunshine-y. That’s also evolved, though, in that I am really inspired by World War II, the uniforms, and the careful men’s tailoring that I started from. I really love the structure.
Tell us a little about how you combine your love of uniforms and structure with your graphic t-shirt business.
Well, when I think of one of my strengths, and the thing that I’ve been inspired by, bringing together that military tailoring with that Rosie the Riveter style. Its part structure and part blue-collar, for getting your hands dirty. However, if I am designing an evening dress for a woman, the purpose is different than just grabbing a t-shirt and being comfortable.
You’re getting married soon?
Yeah, the wedding is March 13. I am not designing the wedding dress. I don’t want to stand at the altar with Brittany [Berkowitz, a local actress] and look at the dress as something I could’ve done this with or that with. I want to concentrate on my bride. However, all the bridesmaids’ dresses will be my design. [Laughs.]
And you’re a straight man in a business surrounded by women and gay men.
[Laughs] Yeah, my fiancé’s family has this sort of joke that it’s easier to get into a woman’s pants if you’re the one who made them.
Now, like Ben, did you audition for Project Runway a few times?
Yeah, there was an audition I did a long time ago that I don’t even really count. I think my fiancé Brittany was going up to New York City to try out for something. And I thought I’d just tag along, kind of waltz in and audition for Project Runway. [Laughs]. I just grabbed the three or four things I ever made. One judge said there was a hem on one of my dresses that was just killing him. Tim Gunn said my designs were all too simple, just sort of thrown together. So, I went away, and when I heard they were going to be in Miami [for Season 6], I knew my work was much better. So I thought, “Let me try again.” I made it really far, but I didn’t make it all the way. I think it was my acting training that made me want to keep trying, keep plugging at it. I just kept building on my work, doing stuff I wanted to do, and growing. I went this third time and made it.
A lot of the Central Florida LGBT community will be rooting for you on the show.
[Laughs] Yeah, Brittany and I were in the play The Little Dog Laughed at the Parliament House. I’m in the arts community, I have lots of friends, and obviously I’m somebody very much for equal rights. I want us to get past all the crap. I always feel way more comfortable with gay people than I do with a bunch of macho straight guys. Most of the straight baseball players I know have no fashion sense to speak of.
Was it helpful to get some feedback at the audition?
Being in Orlando, the height of style can be seen as Brazilian tourists in bright neon spandex. It was great to get professional critique, and understand what the judges saying about my work. It definitely helps me refine what I do, and let me know that I can compete.
Anything you’re nervous about?
You know with my acting background, I think there will be those cringe moments, when I see myself on TV and think, “Oh, what am I doing?” But mostly it’s just excitement at the opportunity.