Mind-blowing history. Breathtaking vistas. Fragrant, fabulous foods. If these are all vacation must-haves for you, listen closely.
Morocco.
But we’re talking a very conservative country whose LGBTQ+ rights are non-existent, you say. And in many ways, you’d be right.
Morocco is a true monarchy, ruled by King Mohammed VI of the ‘Alawi dynasty, and a country codified by Islamic law — which is interesting in its own right as 70% of the country are Imazighen, or Berbers, and were not originally Muslim. And yes, family there (like almost all of Africa) must live underground as any sign of gay affection is illegal. BUT… take note, there is family there. Of course, there is. There is family everywhere. It’s harder to make contact with the community there, and there are no official bars, LGBTQ+ centers, etc.; as of now. Strangely enough, that is part of the reason we decided to go even in light of the country’s policies. We wanted people there to know we see them. They are not forgotten and the fight goes on.
There were other reasons we went as well, even in light of this conundrum. Morocco is a land of many dichotomies. Yes, Islamic tradition is infused with the culture but many people there drink alcohol, which is technically forbidden by the religion (there are laws as to how and where to drink, but trust me, many there drink). Many women there do wear hajibs but many do not, and that is ok. We saw some influencers there taking photos in public and literally only 30% of their bodies were covered. No problems. In fact, even smoking is greatly looked down upon in Islamic teachings and plenty of people there smoke too.
Is this all to say that LGBTQ+ PDA is actually OK? No. Honestly even displays of affection between men and women are not seen in public, and queer love is a firm no. But we felt if the people there do question other tenants, or at the very least, accept some non-Islamic behaviors, maybe there was room to leave people with alternative thoughts. And boy, did we. We planted many seeds with Moroccans who have learned all their lives that LGBTQ+ love is wrong and bad, a phobia passed from generation to generation. We befriended dozens of people without discussing our own sexuality, and using honey definitely paid off. More than once, when we gently prodded locals there to really defend why LGBTQ+ behavior was “wrong,” especially in light of a very deeply held Moroccan Imazighen belief that we are all free to be ourselves, our new friends had no come backs. We saw the real possibility for advancement, especially among the younger people we met.
Finally, we also decided to go because we know full well what it feels like to live in a country where we have free elections, and yet we still are embarrassed and enraged at right wing legislation here, including selecting a Supreme Court that overturned Roe v Wade. Would we want international tourists to avoid the U.S. because many of our laws are archaic? Do we want travelers to think that we all support policy makers that espouse denying 50% of our population the right to self-health decisions?
So yes, we did go to the magical land of Morocco, and I wouldn’t trade one second of it. We were with a guide/driver for two weeks, and we could have easily been with him for twice as long. It may not look big on a map, and for the most part, the roads are quite good, but there are mountains everywhere, and travel time is longer than you think. You’ll also need to add in about 10 stops a day where you just jump out and take photos. You’ll see snowcapped mountains, lush green valleys covered in date palms, dusty ancient Casbahs and the awe-inspiring dunes of the Sahara Desert.
Fez was a favorite of ours. The medina is made up of about 9,000 alleys, filled with butchers, rugs makers, produce vendors, clothing stalls, spice displays, bakers and so much more. We went to several historical sites including an incredible tile-designed mosque and madrasa, the oldest still operating leather tanning business, a 14th century house, two medieval synagogues (pristinely maintained by the Arabic and Imazighen Muslims), and a bunch more. The Marrakesh medina was a bit similar, seeped in historical sites and sounds, although far busier with mopeds being a preferred method of travel, even in the alleyways. Be careful!
Also be aware in any of the markets, the locals want to make a sale, and (especially having suffered greatly during the Covid lock down) some vendors can get very pushy. It’s OK to say no.
Another favorite was Chefchaouen, also called the blue city, and it literally is blue. Get your camera ready. It’s only a one day stop but so well worth it. For some it is also the jumping off point to the Riff Mountains, the center of an enormous cannabis growing region in Morocco. Talk about contradictions. A discussion on hash and kief tourism in Morocco can be rolled into a whole other article, and since we didn’t partake this time, we’ll pass for now.
If you’re into beaches and swimming, check out Essaouira. This is one of the most laid-back places in Morocco, and the fresh fish dinners are insane. You will have cats sitting right beside you as you eat by the Atlantic, by the way (Moroccans like cats!). And as for the cost of dinner? Here it was more pricey than other spots. We had a full dinner with salad, bread, bottled water and really all the fish we could possibly eat (and we hand selected each piece while it was on ice prior to grilling) and the bill was $10 PER PERSON, including the tip. Yes, I may have not mentioned that yet. Your money will go VERY far in Morocco. That is not to say you can’t find gourmet restaurants, and big glitzy five-star hotels. But if you like local food, and a great 3-4 star Riad, it’s a very affordable trip.
Casablanca retains some of the charm from the days of the same-named movie, but don’t be fooled. The port city is home to more than 3 million people, the ginormous and breathtaking Hassan ll mosque, the Morocco Mall, the King’s Castle and a big selection of international dining choices. And yes, there is a Rick’s Café where every single tourist takes a selfie — this writer included — but SPOILER ALERT! It opened about 18 years ago, only inspired by the movie. There was never a Rick’s Café in Morocco prior to that, only on a Hollywood set.
Wherever you go, whatever you do, do not miss the Sahara. You’ve made it that far and Morocco is one of the best and safest places to do a camel trek into the desert. You’ll get to see rolling dunes, the sunrise, the sunset, eat the best Imazighen food, dance to local nomadic music, meet the G’nawa, look for fossils and yes, travel on camels. This was a huge highlight for us, especially since our driver’s family invited us to their home, on the edge of the desert, for a massive mouth-watering cous cous tajine lunch. His sister also did authentic Henna for us. All over the top.
Do we regret going to Morocco? No. Did we feel disingenuous for not being “out” to anyone straight? No. And it never came up. Make no mistake. None of this is to say homophobic thought or legislation is OK. It is not. But we opened doors, we opened minds, we made connections and in the interim, we had a blast. Not every trip is going to be that romantic or partying interlude. And that’s OK.
Sheryl Kay is a longtime print and photojournalist, having appeared in the St. Petersburg Times, the Washington Times, OUT Traveler and CURVE Magazine, to name a few. When pandemics comport themselves, she travels Florida and beyond looking for the exotic and exceptional to share with the community.
