Visiting LGBTQ+ Berlin and Prague

(Photos by Ryan Williams-Jent)

It may be a small world after all, but outside of an Orlando theme park it’s one this Floridian is relatively new at seeing firsthand.

In fact, if someone told me just five years ago that I’d visit any of the countries that inspired Epcot’s pavilions one day, I’d have thought they’d spent too much time drinking around the park. Traveling abroad was always a dream of mine but at nearly 40 it just didn’t seem to be in the postcards.

That changed in 2022, when my husband and I joined our friends on a Mediterranean Cruise, something I recommend for your first time abroad (or in general). I thought that might be an end to my world travels but I’m happy to report it wasn’t.

In early August, thanks to many of those same friends, some frugality and an accommodating staff at Watermark, my husband and I set out to see LGBTQ+ Amsterdam, Berlin and Prague.

HEADING OUT

Our trip began by enrolling in the State Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program at Travel.State.gov, a free service that provides real-time regional updates from local U.S. embassies overseas. It also provides specific information for LGBTQ+ travelers, explaining cultural norms in rural and more tourist-centric cities. Amsterdam, Berlin and Prague, as we knew before deciding to visit, are inclusive and safe — but unfortunately, we only visited two of the three.

Our trip began for most of our friends a week prior, allowing them to attend Amsterdam Pride in late July. We planned to meet them for its final day for a marathon overnight stay before taking a train to Berlin.

After a storm delay that would have made our U.S. layover uncomfortably tight, however, we learned that our plane’s windshield wipers weren’t working. The airline had passengers deboard while it was fixed but we missed our connection. The only option was to spend one more night at home in Tampa Bay and miss Amsterdam (almost) entirely.

The photos our friends took were beautiful and their stories were enviable, and I mention ours only as a cautionary tale. It was a lengthy battle to get our prepaid Amsterdam room refunded by the airline, so please: purchase the travelers’ insurance.

HEADING OUT (REALLY!)

After a bonus night with our dogs and 16 hours of travel, my husband and I made it to Amsterdam’s primary airport. We collected our luggage and followed English announcements and signs to the terminal’s train station, located directly beneath it.

We purchased a ticket for around $5 and boarded a train to Amsterdam Centraal, which connects to a number of international cities. It was a relatively easy process for two sleep-deprived Americans.

The ride was around 15 minutes and we met up with our friends to head to Berlin. Thankfully we’d purchased those tickets in advance, a transparent process from RailEurope.com.

The ride was around six hours, and we were delirious for most of it, but the seats were comfortable enough, there were refreshments for purchase and best of all, it had beautiful views of the countryside. Taking it all in via train was something I’ll never forget.

LGBTQ+ BERLIN

Germany’s capital has captivated me for years. It’s known as a city of artists and museums, but Berlin is also known for its unique role in LGBTQ+ history.

“Back in the 1920s, Berlin had already become a haven and refuge for gays and lesbians from all over the world,” Visit Berlin’s website reads. “There were 170 clubs, bars and pubs for gays and lesbians, as well as riotous nightlife and a gay neighborhood. But parties weren’t the only thing being organized — several political associations were founded in Berlin to fight for equal rights.”

The Scientific-Humanitarian Committee was among them, the first known LGBTQ+ rights organization founded in 1897. Berlin was also home to the first known LGBTQ+ publication, Der Eigene, which ran for 36 years starting in 1896. It ceased publication in 1932 when the Nazis rose to power, which Visit Berlin calls “the death knell for this diversity.”

Thankfully, Berlin has once again become a safe space for LGBTQ+ travelers. The city has recognized Stonewall with its Berlin Pride Celebration since 1979, and now holds a month of festivities culminating at the end of July.

We arrived at the beginning of August at Berlin Central Station, which welcomes over 150 million passengers annually. It was bustling with energy and travelers.

While waiting for an Uber to our hotel, I saw my first sign of Berlin’s commitment to LGBTQ+ residents and visitors. Likely a holdover from the month prior, massive Pride flags flew in front of the station’s entrances, just the warm welcome I was hoping for.

MUST-SEE HISTORY

As a history buff, LGBTQ+ and otherwise, I quickly discovered how much Berlin has to offer. We used Sightseeing City Berlin’s Hop-On, Hop-Off service to see as much of it as possible.

The open-top bus tours can be found in major tourist destinations around the world and we purchased a relatively inexpensive multi-day pass to get a feel for the city with guided English audio. The bus had over 20 stops along two routes, all of which we could experience at our own pace, and our first major sight was the Brandenburg Gate.

“The Brandenburg Gate used to be a memorial of division — after the construction of the Berlin Wall, it was located in the restricted area and could not be visited by East or West Germans,” Berlin’s official website reads. “After the fall of the Wall, the gate became a symbol of German unity.”

It felt like one. We were surrounded by hundreds of people and while most of us spoke different languages, we all seemed to marvel at the ancient architecture’s historical significance in the same way.

The gate is just one part of Berlin’s story, which is evident in structures large and small across a city where World War II still looms large. One of its final battles was waged there in 1945, resulting in significant destruction and a skyline that is now just as contemporary as it is antique.

Berlin also looks back at the era through monuments and memorials citywide, many within walking distance of one another and Museum Island, five extravagant buildings home to definitive works of art. We visited Berlin’s Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe first, designed as “a place of remembrance and commemoration for the up to six million Jewish victims of the Holocaust.” The 4.7-acre, outdoor site consists of over 2,700 concrete slabs on a sloping grid.

While interpretations of the memorial’s meaning vary, it was as moving as it was massive. We found the Memorial to the Persecuted Homosexuals under the National Socialist Regime next, a large concrete cube with a single glass window. Inside, a black-and-white video of same-sex couples kissing plays on repeat.

A nearby sign explains that after the Nazis took power “homosexuals were persecuted to a degree unprecedented in history.”

“There were over 50,000 convictions. Several thousands of gay men were deported to concentration camps; many of them perished there,” it reads. “Lesbian women, too, were forced to conceal their sexuality. For decades, gays continued to be prosecuted in both German post-war states and the homosexual victims of National Socialism were excluded from the culture of remembrance.”

Visit Berlin says it stands as “a symbol against intolerance, discrimination and persecution of homosexuals all over the world.” View it below:

The Empty Library was another poignant visit, commemorating the 1933 burning of 20,000 books the Nazis saw as “un-German” in the middle of a large public square. At its center, a small glass plate among paving stones showcases an empty, underground library.

A plaque nearby reads “That was but a prelude; where they burn books, they will ultimately burn people as well,” a quote from a play written in 1817.

Remnants of the Berlin Wall also line the city. In addition to an East Side Gallery, the decorated and longest-remaining section stretching nearly a mile, replicas and plaques designating former locations can be seen throughout Berlin.

The Berlin Wall Memorial, another open-air exhibition showcasing how devastating the structure was for locals, was a particularly moving experience.

MODERN FAMILY

As powerful as it was, we didn’t spend all of our time in Berlin looking back. We also connected with the city’s LGBTQ+ community to look forward.

Berlin’s 10-line subway system featuring 173 stations had at least one with a permanent rainbow flag behind its name. Rates varied but tickets were available by the number of trips you wanted to buy or different periods of time.

The subway took us to Berlin’s gayborhood of Schöneberg several times. The town is well known for its Regenbogenkiez, or Rainbow District, and it was easy to see why.

Schöneberg had an extensive variety of LGBTQ+ spaces and an impressive amount of foot traffic day and night. Ever the journalist, I was happy to find LGBTQ+ news sources available at no cost in most storefronts, many in English.

One such product was the Friends Navigaytor, a map that guided visitors through LGBTQ+ Berlin.

“Probably no city in the world has changed as much in recent decades as the German capital,” it reads. “Berlin is multicultural and associates freedom, cosmopolitanism, creativity and historical commitment.

“From architectural swank and glamor to the gray prefabricated buildings from [German Democratic Republic] times, from countless cultural delights to exciting sights, from taste experiences of international restaurants to celebrations and parties where (almost) anything is possible — Berlin has it!” it continues.

One of our favorite bars was WOOF, which has served the community “in a friendly and sexy atmosphere” since 2006. In addition to playing “The Golden Girls” on repeat, in English, the venue accepted cards while many others were cash only.

Another was a speakeasy called Pussy Cat, the area’s oldest bar, and Prinzknecht — located beside ART Hotel Connection, Berlin’s “‘hetero-friendly’ LGBT hotel.” It was there that we saw a pamphlet for a drag queen-led Queer Berlin Tour.

The tour currently takes place on Thursdays, when a local told us “the weekend really starts.” Unfortunately, we left on Wednesday, but the scene was no less captivating — or safe. In most spaces, window stickers and pamphlets from MANEO, an anti-violence organization dedicated to protecting LGBTQ+ residents and visitors, were regularly featured.

MUST-SEE MAGIC

We said “auf wiedersehen” to Germany by returning to Berlin Central Station, having pre-purchased train tickets to Prague.

The ride was shorter, around four hours this time, and we were captivated by the European countryside for most of it. I knew far less about the Czech Republic’s capital than I did Berlin but was excited to see what it had to offer — especially during Prague Pride.

One thing I did know was currency would differ. Unlike Berlin, which utilizes the euro, Prague uses the Czech Crown. One euro was essentially worth one dollar while our dollar was worth 22.5 of Prague’s.

It made goods and services very inexpensive for us — and while the euro and U.S. dollar were also widely accepted, it was at a significant cost. Thankfully most merchants accepted cards, resulting in one of the most cost-effective trips (and Prides) of my life.

We arrived at Prague’s main railway station, found a designated area for ride share services, and made our way to the Airbnb my husband, our friends and I had already booked. Given the conversion rate, I came to understand why the massive, renovated building from the 17th century was so affordable.

We fell in love with Prague right away, a magical city affectionately known as the City of a Hundred Spires, the Golden City and the Heart of Europe.

“Anyone who has briefly visited Prague regrets not staying longer,” its official tourism website reads. “Prague is not only a beautiful architectural gem, but also one of the most cultural cities in the world.

“You will experience the authentic Bohemian spirit of Prague at every turn,” it continues. “Whether in cafés, jazz clubs or opera houses, you’ll find your passion everywhere — traditional, new or completely experimental.”

Prague’s Old Town Square was our first must-see. It was founded in the 12th century and features breathtaking structures like the city’s Old Town Hall and its Astronomical Clock, first completed in the 1400s.

The marvel is the oldest functioning astronomical clock in the world. It has a dial that represents the position of the sun and moon, displays multiple European times and features intricate statues and moving figures.

We also visited Prague Castle, founded around 880 and according to the Guiness Book of World Records, the largest coherent castle complex in the world. The site “consists of a large-scale composition of palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, from the remains of Romanesque-style buildings from the 10th century through Gothic modifications of the 14th century,” its website explains.

We purchased tickets to enter several of them — from the Old Royal Palace from the 14th century to St. George’s Basilica, founded around 920. Even as someone who isn’t religious, the church was breathtaking. The entire city was.

LGBTQ+ PRAGUE

It was clear from the beginning of our trip that Prague celebrates the LGBTQ+ community. Progressive Pride flags flew from ancient buildings, lined medieval bridges and were attached to public transport.

We utilized Prague’s rapid transport to attend the final events of Prague Pride 2024, which welcomed more than 100,000 people to its week-long festival. With the currency conversion rate, we paid four U.S. cents each for 24-hour bus tickets.

Prague Pride was formed in 2011 and is held in early August as to not compete with other European LGBTQ+ celebrations. It’s advertised as “a party that paints the city in rainbow colors and attracts travelers from across the country and beyond.”

I can attest that at least nine Americans were in attendance and had a blast. The theme for this year was family, something that would’ve been obvious from the start.

“We all know that word,” Prague Pride explained its choice. “Those of us who have a family know it, and even those of us who don’t have a family know it. The word family is a weapon, a disciplinary element, a tool to maintain structure and order.

“It represents hope — hope for an end to loneliness, for new beginnings, for care and for a future,” they continued. “A family is a community of people who consider themselves to be one. There have always been queer families … Come to our festival and we can talk about them together.”

I’m so happy we did. We participated in two main events, the first of which was a family picnic in its Pride Village. The event took place on Střelecký Island under the city’s beautiful Legion Bridge along the Vltava River, an open-air festival with local vendors, entertainment, food and drink.

It was a sight to behold, especially after nightfall. Drag entertainers lip synced to music accompanied by live instrumentation as the masses danced, queer couples and families walked hand-in-hand and dogs roamed between participants seated on blankets. It was all as beautiful as the park itself.

Afterwards we enjoyed some of the region’s LGBTQ+ nightlife. One favorite bar was Café Bar Flirt, nestled in Prague’s historical center across from a church built in the 1100s. Patrons could enjoy the open air in a courtyard between the two, sit inside on its first level or head downstairs into its brick cellar for a cooler space. Notably for this fan, they had an affinity for Britney Spears and other pop music.

Prague Pride’s main event, its parade, kicked off the next day with their “March for Every Family.”

“Bring your loved ones and come enjoy the parade together — whether they are your blood relatives or members of your chosen family who provide you with support and unconditional acceptance,” it was billed. “All families are welcome, no matter what they look like!”

The route was nearly two miles and wound through the city’s Old Town Square, a remarkable juxtaposition of the past and future. The parade included no motorized vehicles in favor of sustainability and consisted of marchers carrying parade entry numbers and personalized signs.

Crowds filled Prague’s streets for the march, which maintained an unforgettable grassroots feel even with major participating corporate partners and private foundations. It was also open for anyone attending Pride to join in the processional, which we did.

The route took us through Prague’s streets and across one of the city’s massive bridges, all of which was closed to traffic. It ended at the base of Letná Park overlooking the Vltava River and city.

It was a hike, one with more stairs than I was ready for, but the journey was worth it. We eventually found ourselves in what organizers had repurposed into Pride Park, “an oasis that appears like a mirage from the mist of sweat and tears as you climb the grueling stairs from Čech Bridge.” Aptly put.

There were six main music stages, which I’ll note were preceded by freestanding DJ stations along the entire parade route, and they were full of drag, live music and other forms of entertainment. There was a beauty zone, where companies like Nivea provided free sunscreen, an area for nonprofit and informational booths where I was happy to see the U.S. embassy and so much more.

LGBTQ+ Berlin and LGBTQ+ Prague were undoubtedly different, but our trip showcased how much they — and our community — have in common. The fight for civil rights knows no language and crosses all borders, something I was proud to experience firsthand. I would encourage anyone to do the same.

Learn more about LGBTQ+ Berlin at visitBerlin.de and Prague Pride at Festival.PraguePride.com.